I learned at the easy break, I only surf when it's
over 5'now. The surfers all watched me grow from an oddity to a menace. They are still amazed at a waveski's abilitys.
The surfers say, it can trim outside of any "impossible to make peak" and snake the whole lineup,
with a paddle you can powerhouse a move to stay right in the sweet spot, denial for all the people inside, I've surfed under longboards and snuck in from behind the steepest peaks Only great shortboarders can snake me!
behold now I am "kayaker",
I do miss the commadrie,
they will still talk to me on a lonely day,
when the crew is there, I'm shut out!, blocked, snickered, heckled and threatened,
Some days I see the same backstabbing and dog eat dog
attitude of the workplace, everything I am there to miss.
the crew is still having fun, making me aggro.
Now I surf those big spread out unpredictible sharky breaks
or the impossible left.
I may learn to standup this season,
then I can snake and ride party waves all I want
with a clear concious.