Forum: SurfZone
I surfed with 2 of my (board) friends and USWA member (Waveski) Frank Casciotta for my second time and Franks first. We surfed Boca Barranca with head high & occ sets rolling in at 8-10ft, very fun long left if you caught the right sets and very forgiving.
Frank was hooked up by a local and nailed some nice walled up rights in front of the river while I shared and shot for the larger occ lefts coming in. Very forgiving wave if you f up, on one of my best and biggest waves at 10-12ft I had a long boarder drop in on me (honest mistake) and got eaten by a wave that hurt less than our chest high chop here in Florida.
Also surfed Jaco at head high and mostly closed out, Estillrios with some overhead and some ++ sets which is also a very forgiving wave for its size though not quite as easy on the wipeouts as Barranca. Imo.
I did surf the largest and heaviest wave I have ever surfed at one of the favorite local spots at the very south end of Hermosa. We were told that this particular spot was working by a friend that lives there and is one of the best local surfers in the area. Everywhere else was closing out and this area would occ provide a great ride and the occ REALLY big sets.
I spent at least a 1/2 hour way outside sizing up the break and the waves, on the clean ups they were the thickest biggest walls I have been in on my Waveski. Anyways, eventually I dropped in on one of the bigger sets of the day as it seemed to look like it would hold up well, made a fast drop, I never made a full bottom turn as I could see where this was heading and within seconds was screaming down the wall of the heaviest wave I have ridden before bailing out at what I felt was nearly a vertical ride straight up and over this monster.
Without a doubt I had exited not a moment to soon because I was in mid air as the wave immediately collapsed behind and below me, I landed and went under a few under water, recovered and then quickly paddled out.
To my pleasant surprise I also had some props from those who watched it. My board surfing buddy Dave who has been surfing in Central/South America and was on the inside said it was great ride to watch and was the height of 2 of my waveskis, Waveski buddy Frank onshore from his perspective said it was a conservative 10-12ft and an awesome ride, either way, what a wave and in retrospect I am really glad I nor Frank got hurt as this certainly seemed to be the wave to do it on.
Overall I had a great time and perhaps will add some more stories and pics down the road. Also I was really glad that fellow Waveskier Frank came along, I'm sure he will have his stories too. I still don't think the he got the full gist of Hermosa's big sets ;')
Appreciate the ear (eye?) and as soon as I recover (tired as hell now) and catch up on work and stuff I will be again working on USWA full swing. Hope everyone is well and getting surf!
Regards to all!
Brian Kuszmar

