The day Charles refers to, Davenport was closing out...both North and South reefs were one wall of breaking wave... so we thought we would be clever and surf at another point (Greyhound) that from a cliff 500ft up and half amile away.. the surf looked manageable. When I paddled out between the sets I kept paddling out and out and....out, paddling over the walls/swell that were just about to break, scaring the sh*t out of me......and I realized I was in over my head.
By the way, I ended up being mowed by a wave, burried under 15 ft of turbulance, paddle was wrenched out of my hands. Swam. Luckily got my Reaction (Charles, Buck, Galen and Dave all helped me, thank you.).
I have no aspirations to claim the biggest wave. I like it at a maneagable size.
By the way the youtube vid of Dave and Russ at Steamers was amazing. Wasnt there aslo an amazing photo of Sean Morley surfing a giant and him and his kayak looked like a dot with the giant wave behind about to crush him?!
Another by the way; speaking of loosing paddles when a big wave comes... Do you see when many of the whitewater guys go over a big drop they throw their paddles away and they appear to grab the kayak and hold themselves in ? Dennis Judson ish
Rider of the year video... Also on the dagger/Tao site...